Since the time of Genghis Khan, Beijingers have built single-story homes with tiled roofs, facing into a central courtyard and protected by high walls. They are set within a labyrinth of crumbling grey alleyways, some dating back centuries. These Hutongs, as they were named, are the heart of traditional Beijing and one of its most alluring sights.
Ralph and I decided to walk through the Qianmen Hutong to experience the way the Chinese people have lived in Beijing for some 5,000 years. Before entering any Huntong in Beijing, you are likely to be mobbed by rickshaw drivers who wish to take you on a tour of the courtyard homes. Being the explorers that we are, Ralph and I decided to walk, and I am glad we did. It is very safe and it allows you to stop and take pictures and try and talk with the locals.
The courtyard homes are very modest and small, with many having only one or two rooms. They are very social environments, as people only need to step outside their home to speak with the 7 or 8 other families that share the courtyard.
Look closely at this picture and you can see the face of a resident behind the door to the courtyard. She and a few other women were sitting next to several bamboo cages filled with songbirds, playing a card game that involved throwing the cards down on a drum with your hand hitting the drum. It was very animated, with lots of talking, yelling, and laughing.
The alleyways in the Hutongs are only 9 meters across so cars can not drive through. Bicycles, motorized scooters, rickshaws, and walking are the predominant ways the residents travel. As you can see from the above picture, Hutongs are in incredibly dusty and dirty, and a large majority of the homes are in disrepair.
Yet, I found the Hutongs to possess a certain beauty that is hard to describe. Splashes of color could be found from simple items such as a mop, or as in the picture below, a silk scarf draped over a trash can.
What I did not find so beautiful in the Hutongs were the public bathrooms. Left without bathrooms in their homes, residents of the Hutongs use public bathrooms when nature calls. These public restrooms are equipped with what some call "squatty potties" and when I walked in to pee, there was a Chinese man pooping right there in front of me. I immediately turned around and walked out.
As these Hutongs are located in prime real estate throughout Beijing, many are being destroyed in the march toward the 2008 Olympics. According to some estimates, 10,000 homes in the Hutongs are being demolished each year. While some feel that moving residents out of Hutongs into high-rise apartment buildings improves their living conditions dramatically, many are distraught that a huge part of Beijing's history is being destroyed. Given that the Chinese government owns all land in Beijing, residents are not given an option. I certainly hope that they preserve some of the Hutongs, but everywhere you look in Beijing, you see many of the homes in the Huntongs being leveled.
Since the time of Genghis Khan, Beijingers have built single-story homes with tiled roofs, facing into a central courtyard and protected by high walls. They are set within a labyrinth of crumbling grey alleyways, some dating back centuries. These Hutongs, as they were named, are the heart of traditional Beijing and one of its most alluring sights.
Ralph and I decided to walk through the Qianmen Hutong to experience the way the Chinese people have lived in Beijing for some 5,000 years. Before entering any Huntong in Beijing, you are likely to be mobbed by rickshaw drivers who wish to take you on a tour of the courtyard homes. Being the explorers that we are, Ralph and I decided to walk, and I am glad we did. It is very safe and it allows you to stop and take pictures and try and talk with the locals. 
The courtyard homes are very modest and small, with many having only one or two rooms. They are very social environments, as people only need to step outside their home to speak with the 7 or 8 other families that share the courtyard. 
Look closely at this picture and you can see the face of a resident behind the door to the courtyard. She and a few other women were sitting next to several bamboo cages filled with songbirds, playing a card game that involved throwing the cards down on a drum with your hand hitting the drum. It was very animated, with lots of talking, yelling, and laughing. 
The alleyways in the Hutongs are only 9 meters across so cars can not drive through. Bicycles, motorized scooters, rickshaws, and walking are the predominant ways the residents travel. As you can see from the above picture, Hutongs are in incredibly dusty and dirty, and a large majority of the homes are in disrepair. 
Yet, I found the Hutongs to possess a certain beauty that is hard to describe. Splashes of color could be found from simple items such as a mop, or as in the picture below, a silk scarf draped over a trash can. 
What I did not find so beautiful in the Hutongs were the public bathrooms. Left without bathrooms in their homes, residents of the Hutongs use public bathrooms when nature calls. These public restrooms are equipped with what some call "squatty potties" and when I walked in to pee, there was a Chinese man pooping right there in front of me. I immediately turned around and walked out. 
As these Hutongs are located in prime real estate throughout Beijing, many are being destroyed in the march toward the 2008 Olympics. According to some estimates, 10,000 homes in the Hutongs are being demolished each year. While some feel that moving residents out of Hutongs into high-rise apartment buildings improves their living conditions dramatically, many are distraught that a huge part of Beijing's history is being destroyed. Given that the Chinese government owns all land in Beijing, residents are not given an option. I certainly hope that they preserve some of the Hutongs, but everywhere you look in Beijing, you see many of the homes in the Huntongs being leveled.
